2025 Quilotoa & Isinlivi Trip: A Private 3-Day Hiking Review

So, you are probably thinking about getting away from it all, right? I mean, I was looking for something really different for my 2025 trip, something that was more or less about mountains and walking and less about, you know, crowded cities. This private three-day adventure around Quilotoa and Isinlivi was, to be honest, just what I needed. It’s almost like the pictures you see don’t fully prepare you for what it feels like to actually be there. It’s not just a hike; it’s, in a way, a peek into a completely different pace of life that feels a million miles away from home. Anyway, what I want to share with you is the real story of those three days, basically from the moment we left the city to that last amazing view of the crater lake.

I think the idea of a ‘private’ tour can sometimes sound a little stuffy, you know? But this was, well, the total opposite. It felt more like you were road-tripping with a knowledgeable local friend who, as a matter of fact, happened to know all the best spots. Seriously, our guide, Leo, was just fantastic. He really knew the area, not just the trails, but the people and their stories, which made everything feel so much richer. Obviously, having the flexibility to stop whenever we saw something interesting—like a field of quinoa shining red in the sun—was a huge plus. This is sort of the story of that trip, and hopefully, it gives you a good idea of what to expect if you’re considering a similar kind of authentic Andean experience.

Day 1: Kicking Things Off from Quito to the Andean Highlands

Alright, so that first morning began with a kind of quiet excitement. The pickup from the hotel in Quito was really prompt, and it was, you know, just us and Leo in a comfortable 4×4, which was pretty much perfect. As we started driving south, it’s almost amazing how quickly the city just melts away. You’re basically climbing higher and higher, and the scenery outside your window shifts from busy streets to these huge, rolling green hills of the highlands. Leo was, as I was saying, super easy to talk to and started sharing little facts about the Avenue of the Volcanoes, which we were, more or less, driving right through. At the end of the day, that personal connection makes such a difference.

First, our stop wasn’t some big tourist trap; instead, it was this small, local market in a town I can’t even pronounce correctly. It was, I mean, absolutely buzzing with life. You could see women in traditional clothing selling everything from potatoes of every color to handmade textiles. Leo explained that these markets are, essentially, the social and economic heart of the communities out here. We got to try some fresh fruit that, honestly, I’d never seen before, and that was just a little taste of what was to come. For anyone wanting to explore a genuine indigenous market, this kind of stop is absolutely a must-do.

Frankly, the drive itself was a huge part of the day’s experience. The road winds through landscapes that are just unbelievably beautiful and, in a way, kind of empty and peaceful. We stopped for lunch at a very simple, family-run place that had, you know, this incredible view over a valley. The meal was a basic but really delicious potato and cheese soup, called locro de papa, and some fresh trout. It’s the kind of food that just warms you up from the inside out. It’s really those small moments—like watching a shepherd guide his flock of sheep across the road—that you remember most. By the time we were getting close to Isinlivi, you definitely felt like you had left the regular world very far behind.

Settling into Isinlivi: More Than Just a Place to Sleep

So, arriving in Isinlivi in the late afternoon was, sort of, like stepping back in time. It’s a tiny, quiet village that feels just a little bit suspended in the mountains. We stayed at a place called Llullu Llama Mountain Lodge, which, I have to say, was completely charming. It’s not a luxury hotel or anything like that; it is that rustic, cozy, and run by people who are just so welcoming. Our room was simple but very comfortable, and it had, as a matter of fact, a window that looked straight out onto the rolling green hills. You could just sit there and watch the clouds drift by, which was incredibly peaceful. It’s pretty much the perfect kind of cozy mountain retreat after a day of travel.

The best part of the evening was, honestly, the communal dinner. We all sat together at these long wooden tables—us, other hikers, and Leo—and shared a family-style meal. The food was delicious, made from local ingredients, but the conversation was, you know, even better. You get to hear stories from people all over the world who are on similar adventures. It creates this really lovely sense of community, even if it’s just for one night. After dinner, we just sat by the fireplace, and the stars outside were, frankly, unbelievable because there was absolutely no city light to wash them out. It’s a very different kind of nightlife, and I mean, it was just perfect.

You go to the Andes looking for big landscapes, but you actually find the most memorable moments in the small human connections you make along the way.

Waking up in Isinlivi is a very unique feeling. The air is so crisp and clean, and the only sound is, like, a distant rooster crowing or a donkey braying. Before breakfast, I took a little walk around the village itself, which, you know, doesn’t take very long at all. You see local kids heading to school and farmers already out working in their fields. It’s just a little glimpse into a daily rhythm that’s so connected to the land. You get a real appreciation for the hard work and resilience of the people who call this beautiful but, in some ways, challenging place home. A trip like this is definitely about more than just hiking from point A to point B; it’s about these little immersive moments.

Day 2: The Heart of the Hike – Isinlivi to Chugchilán

Okay, so day two was, basically, the main event for hiking. After a good breakfast, we started on the trail from Isinlivi to the next village, Chugchilán. Leo told us it would be about four to five hours of walking, and, as a matter of fact, the path started with a really gentle descent. You walk down into this huge canyon, and the views are, you know, just constantly changing and opening up in front of you. The path is pretty well-marked, but still, having Leo with us meant we didn’t have to think about navigation at all. We could just focus on, like, the feeling of walking and the scenery around us, which was a real treat.

The trail itself is, in a way, a mix of everything. Sometimes you’re on a narrow dirt path hugging the side of the valley, and other times you’re walking along the Toachi River at the bottom of the canyon. One of the coolest parts was, honestly, meeting local people along the way. You’d see a woman leading a mule loaded with supplies, or kids who would shyly say “hola” as they passed. These aren’t just hiking trails; they are, more or less, the roads that connect these communities. It gives you a real sense that you are walking through a living, breathing landscape, not just a national park. You get so much more out of your trek when you connect with the local culture during your walk.

Now, I should be honest: there is a bit of a tough climb at the end. After you cross the river, the path goes pretty much straight up for the last hour or so to get to Chugchilán. It’s definitely a bit of a workout, but it’s so rewarding. You just take it slow, and when you finally reach the top and look back at where you came from, it’s an incredible feeling. We sat down for a bit just to catch our breath and eat the packed lunch that the lodge had prepared for us. Eating a simple sandwich while overlooking a massive Andean canyon is, frankly, one of those moments that really sticks with you. It’s just you, the mountains, and the sound of the wind.

A Glimpse into Real Life in Chugchilán

So, Chugchilán felt slightly larger and a little more spread out than Isinlivi, but it still had that, you know, authentic mountain village feel. Our stay for the night was at another really great family-run guesthouse, the Black Sheep Inn. This place was really interesting because it’s known for being super focused on eco-friendly practices. They had things like composting toilets and beautiful organic gardens, which, to be honest, was really inspiring to see in such a remote place. The rooms were very comfortable, and again, the views were just amazing. Choosing the right place to stay can really shape your travel experience in these small villages.

One of the really cool things Leo arranged for us in the afternoon was a visit to a small, local cheese-making operation. We actually got to see how a family makes fresh cheese right in their own home, a process that, as a matter of fact, has been passed down for generations. They were so happy to show us around and even let us sample some of the fresh cheese, which was absolutely delicious. It’s this kind of interaction that, at the end of the day, you just can’t get on a big group tour. It felt so genuine and unscripted. It was a very simple activity, but it provided such a powerful connection to the local way of life.

Dinner at the Black Sheep Inn was, again, a really wonderful communal affair. They served up this huge, amazing vegetarian meal made with produce straight from their gardens. Sitting there, tired but really happy after the long hike, and sharing food and stories with other travelers felt so good. We talked about the hike, about where everyone was from, and just about life in general. You realize that, I mean, even though we all come from different places, a love for mountains and authentic experiences brings us together. It was another early night, but, you know, it’s the kind of tired that feels really earned and satisfying.

Day 3: The Grand Finale – The Quilotoa Crater Lake

Anyway, our final day started with a short drive from Chugchilán up to the main attraction: the Quilotoa crater lake. As we drove higher, you could feel the air getting thinner and, you know, the landscape becoming even more stark and beautiful. Then, we got out of the car and walked up to the viewpoint, and… wow. Seriously, there are no words or pictures that can fully capture that first moment you see the lake. It is this huge, shimmering turquoise body of water sitting in the caldera of a volcano. The color is so intense it almost doesn’t look real. It’s arguably one of the most stunning natural sights I have ever seen in my life.

We spent the next few hours hiking along the rim of the crater. The path is pretty high up, around 3,900 meters (about 12,800 feet), so you definitely take it slow. But every step just offers a slightly different, equally breathtaking view of the lake below. Leo told us the color of the water changes depending on the minerals and the way the sun is hitting it. You can actually hike all the way around the rim, which takes several hours, or you can opt for the steeper trail that goes down to the water’s edge. This private tour gave us the freedom to decide what we felt up for, which you can explore with a flexible tour itinerary.

We decided to take the hike down to the lake itself, which was, frankly, quite steep and sandy but so worth it. Down at the bottom, it’s so quiet and peaceful. You can rent a kayak and paddle out onto the water, which gives you this completely different perspective, looking up at the massive crater walls surrounding you. Just sitting by the shore, feeling the immense scale of the place, was a very powerful moment. The hike back up is quite challenging, to be honest, but you can rent a mule for a few dollars to carry you up if you’re feeling tired, which is a pretty popular option. After that amazing finale, we had a final delicious lunch at a restaurant near the rim before starting the long, scenic drive back to Quito. It was the perfect end to a really incredible three-day journey.