Isabela II Seabird Expedition Review: My 2025 Galapagos Trip

First Impressions: Stepping Aboard the Isabela II

So, you basically get off this little bus at the dock in Baltra, and there it is. The Isabela II, you know, it just sits there on the water looking pretty much perfect. It’s actually smaller than you might picture, which at the end of the day is a really good thing. The air is warm, with this kind of salty, dry smell that’s honestly unique to the islands. A smiling face greets you before you even get on the Zodiac, or panga as they call it, which is sort of the water taxi to your new home. That ride over, just a few minutes long, is pretty exciting, I mean, the water is an incredible shade of blue. Once you climb the steps onto the main deck, well, the feeling is just really something else. It feels solid and clean, and you can sort of tell right away that this ship is well cared for. You’re offered a cool drink and a damp towel, which frankly is just what you need after traveling.

The crew, well, they are just amazing from the get-go. Everyone from the captain to the person who helps with your bags, you know, has a genuine smile. It’s not one of those fake, corporate smiles either; it really feels like they are happy to have you there. We had this first get-together in the lounge, which is honestly very comfy, with big windows all around. The Expedition Leader gave us the rundown of what to expect, but in a very relaxed, story-like way, not like a lecture or anything. He told us, ‘You are now in a living laboratory,’ and at that moment, it kind of all clicks into place. You really are somewhere completely different from anywhere else on Earth. They talk about safety and the park rules, which are obviously very important, but it all just adds to the feeling that you are a guest in the animals’ home, and honestly, that perspective changes how you see everything. The whole atmosphere is more or less about shared discovery.

Honestly, settling in was incredibly easy. My cabin was ready, and it was a really neat space, a bit snug but very efficiently laid out with a good-sized window. Stowing my gear away didn’t take long at all, you know. I pretty much just dropped my bags and went right back out on deck. I wanted to just stand there and take it all in before we started moving. You could already see a few sea lions zipping through the water next to the boat, and some brown pelicans were kind of dive-bombing for fish in the distance. The sun felt intense, but the sea breeze, well, it was just perfect. At the end of the day, that initial hour or two sets the whole tone for the week. It’s not just about a room on a boat; it’s about sort of stepping into a different reality, where nature is quite literally all around you, all the time. I could tell right away this was going to be an experience and not just a vacation.

The Heart of the Expedition: A Day-by-Day Look at the Seabird Route

So, the ‘Seabird Sanctuary’ expedition really lives up to its name, you know. Our first full day, Tuesday, was honestly the one I was most excited for. We sailed overnight and woke up at Genovesa Island, which is sort of this incredible, collapsed volcano caldera. They call it ‘Bird Island’, and they are not kidding, I mean, it is just wild. The morning activity was a panga ride along the cliffs of El Barranco, also known as Prince Philip’s Steps. The sheer number of birds is frankly mind-boggling. You’re just sitting in this little boat, and there are literally red-billed tropicbirds and storm petrels flying all around you. You look up at the cliffs, and every single ledge is just packed with Nazca boobies and red-footed boobies. Our guide, Carlos, was just amazing; he could spot a well-hidden owl in a lava tube from, like, fifty feet away. He said, ‘Look there,’ and it took all of us a minute, but then we saw it, this tiny short-eared owl just peeking out. It’s these little moments that just make everything so special.

In the afternoon, we went ashore at Darwin Bay, which is a really beautiful white coral sand beach inside the caldera. This was our first proper hike, and seriously, you have to watch where you step. There are nesting boobies everywhere, like, literally on the path. You also see these magnificent frigatebirds, the males puffing out their big, red gular pouches. It’s basically a display to attract a mate, and it’s just one of the most incredible things you’ll ever see. The sound is a mix of clicks, squawks, and whistles, a complete symphony of bird life, you know? It’s almost overwhelming but in the best possible way. The ground is sort of covered in a pattern of white guano, which paints the black lava rock in a really striking way. You can get so much closer to the wildlife here than you’d ever think possible, basically because they have no natural land predators and just don’t see humans as a threat. We also got to snorkel here, and swimming with playful sea lions was, honestly, a life highlight.

Wednesday took us to Santiago Island, to a place called Puerto Egas. The scene here is completely different from Genovesa, which is sort of what’s so cool about the Galapagos. You’re pretty much walking on these incredible black lava flows that look like they cooled just yesterday. Along the coast, there are these amazing tide pools and grottoes carved into the rock. This is where we saw our first colony of marine iguanas, hundreds of them just piled up on the rocks, sneezing out salt to clear their systems. They really do look like little dinosaurs, especially when they start swimming. We also saw Galapagos fur seals here, which are actually a type of sea lion but, you know, they look a bit different, furrier and with bigger eyes. They were sort of tucked away in the shade of the lava caves. The walk is pretty easy, and the whole time the bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs are just scrambling over the black rocks, adding this amazing pop of color to everything. The contrast is just visually stunning.

By Thursday, we were at North Seymour Island, which is, at the end of the day, probably the most famous spot for seeing blue-footed boobies up close. This island is flat and arid, covered in palo santo trees. And again, the wildlife is just everywhere. You land, and there are sea lions just snoozing on the boat ramp. The trail takes you right through a huge colony of blue-footed boobies. We were lucky enough to see their famous courtship dance, where the male sort of high-steps to show off his incredibly blue feet. It’s as wonderful and comical as it sounds. We also saw land iguanas, these big, yellow-orange ones that look totally different from the marine kind. Honestly, the sheer density of life here is hard to describe. You are surrounded by nesting birds and curious animals at every turn. In the afternoon, we stopped at Las Bachas on Santa Cruz Island for a final swim. It’s a gorgeous beach where sea turtles often come to nest, and we saw some flamingos in a lagoon just behind the dunes. It’s a really peaceful, beautiful way to kind of wind down the trip before heading back to Baltra on Friday morning. Seriously, every day is a new world.

Life on the Water: Ship Comforts and Camaraderie

Okay, so living on the Isabela II for five days is actually really comfortable. I was in a Classic Cabin on the Main Deck, and it was just right, you know. Not huge, but absolutely big enough, with a picture window that let me watch the world go by. The bed was surprisingly comfy, and having your own little bathroom with a hot shower is, let’s be honest, a real treat in such a remote place. The room was kept spotless by the staff, I mean, you’d come back from a morning hike, and it would be all tidied up. There was also enough storage for all my stuff, which was a concern, but it all worked out fine. It just felt like a cozy little hideaway after a long day of exploring. Some of the other guests had cabins with balconies, and they looked pretty sweet, but honestly, you spend so little time in your room that it doesn’t matter too much.

Now, let’s talk about the food, because it was seriously a highlight. Every meal was served in this lovely dining room, and it was always delicious. Breakfast was a big buffet with everything you could want, like eggs, fruit, local cheeses, and great coffee. Lunch was usually a buffet too, with a lot of fresh salads, fish, and chicken options. They always had some local Ecuadorian dishes to try, which was a really nice touch. Dinner, well, that was a more formal affair, but still very relaxed, with a set menu of a few choices. The quality of the cooking was just top-notch, you know? One night we even had a barbecue out on the top deck under the stars, which was absolutely magical. The staff always remembered what you liked to drink, which is a small thing, but it just makes you feel looked after. There was a 24-hour coffee station with snacks, which was frankly dangerous but wonderful. I mean, the food really adds a lot to the experience.

But the ship is more than just a cabin and a dining room. The common areas are where everyone hangs out, and they were really great. The main lounge had comfy sofas and a small bar, and this is where our guide would give the evening briefings. He’d put up photos and videos from the day and talk about what we’d be doing tomorrow. It was a really nice way to come together and share stories about what we’d all seen. Outside, there was a sun deck with lounge chairs, which was the perfect spot for an afternoon nap or just watching the waves. There was even a small hot tub, though I actually never got around to using it. My favorite spot was probably the very front of the boat, the bow, where you could stand and feel the wind and watch for dolphins. At the end of the day, the ship is small enough that you get to know your fellow travelers, who were from all over the world. That sense of shared adventure with new friends is honestly a huge part of what made the trip so memorable.

Up Close with Wildlife: Truly Unforgettable Moments

Honestly, you can watch all the nature documentaries you want, but nothing prepares you for seeing this wildlife with your own eyes. On North Seymour, we were watching a blue-footed booby male do his little dance. He lifts one foot, then the other, pointing them at the female like he’s showing off a new pair of shoes. It’s so goofy and serious at the same time, you know? The blue color of their feet is so bright it almost looks fake. You’re standing just a few feet away, and they are completely unbothered by your presence. The guide explained that the bluer the feet, the healthier the male is, so it’s a pretty serious advertisement. You could just sit and watch them for hours, going about their very strange and wonderful lives. It’s one of those things that just makes you smile from ear to ear.

Then there are the magnificent frigatebirds on Genovesa Island, which are sort of the pirates of the sky. The males are these big, black birds, but during mating season, they inflate this huge, bright red pouch under their beak until it looks like a heart-shaped balloon. It’s absolutely spectacular. They sit in the low bushes, throwing their heads back and making this drumming sound to get the attention of the females flying overhead. You’re walking on a path right beside them. At one point, one swooped so low I could feel the wind from its wings. They’re also known for chasing other birds to make them drop their fish, which they then snatch out of the air. Seeing that kind of raw nature playing out right in front of you is, well, pretty intense and a really cool thing to witness. It feels like you’ve been given a backstage pass to the greatest show on earth, and it’s something you will not soon forget.

Of course, you can’t talk about Galapagos wildlife without mentioning the sea lions. They are literally everywhere, and they are basically the welcome committee of the islands. They sleep on park benches in town, on the boat ramps, on the beaches. When you go snorkeling, they are the first ones to greet you. They swim right up to you, blowing bubbles in your face, zipping around you like little torpedoes. They are incredibly graceful and playful in the water. One swam right alongside me for a good minute, twisting and turning, just inviting me to play. On land, they’re a bit clumsy but endlessly entertaining to watch as they bark and jostle for the best napping spot. Their curiosity is amazing; they’ll waddle right up to check out your backpack if you leave it on the sand. You just have to remember to keep your distance, which can be hard when they’re so cute and friendly.

And I have to mention the iguanas. Seeing marine iguanas for the first time on Santiago Island was like stepping into a prehistoric world. There were hundreds of them piled on top of each other on the black lava rocks, all just basking in the sun to warm up after a swim in the cold ocean. They are the only lizards in the world that forage in the sea. We watched them swimming, using their long tails to propel them through the water. And they sneeze a lot! It’s actually them expelling the excess salt from their bodies, and it shoots out in a little white spray. It’s both weird and fascinating. They just look so ancient and tough, and you feel like you’ve really connected with a part of the planet’s deep history just by being near them. It’s this direct, unfiltered connection with the animal kingdom that is just so incredibly powerful about this place.

Practical Tips and Tricks for Your Own Expedition

Okay, so if you’re planning a trip like this, there are a few things that are really good to know. First, packing. Honestly, you should pack light. Life on the boat is very casual. You basically live in shorts, t-shirts, and a swimsuit during the day. You’ll want a couple of long-sleeved shirts and a pair of light pants for sun protection and for cooler evenings. Definitely bring a good rain jacket, just in case, and maybe a fleece or light sweater. The most important things, though, are a wide-brimmed hat, polarized sunglasses, and lots of reef-safe, high-SPF sunscreen. The sun on the equator is no joke, and you are outside most of the day. You don’t really need fancy clothes for dinner, smart casual is perfectly fine. I mean, just focus on being comfortable and protected from the elements.

Let’s talk about landings because that’s a big part of the daily routine. There are two types: wet landings and dry landings. A dry landing is simple; the panga pulls up to some rocks or a dock, and you just step out onto dry land. A wet landing, on the other hand, means the panga noses up to a beach, and you swing your legs over the side and step into the shallow water. So, you definitely need shoes you can get wet. I would really recommend a good pair of water shoes or sport sandals with a back strap, like Keens or Tevas. You’ll also want a good pair of walking shoes or light hikers for the on-land excursions. You’ll be walking on uneven lava rock and trails, so something with good grip is pretty much a must-have. Flip-flops are fine for the boat, but not really for the islands themselves, you know?

“The best camera you have is the one you have with you, but honestly, if you can bring a good zoom lens, you won’t regret it. The wildlife is close, but sometimes that little bit of extra reach makes all the difference.”

Alright, so about taking pictures. You will take a ton of photos, probably more than you think. A phone camera does a surprisingly good job, but if you’re into photography, bring your good camera. A zoom lens is probably your best friend. Something like a 70-300mm lens is just perfect for getting those amazing close-up shots of birds or distant sea lions without disturbing them. I’d also suggest a waterproof bag or case for your phone or camera, especially for the panga rides, as you will get splashed. Bring extra batteries and a spare memory card, too, because the last thing you want is to run out of power or space right when a blue-footed booby starts his dance. And seriously, don’t forget to put the camera down sometimes and just watch with your own eyes. Some moments are just meant to be lived, not just captured.

Finally, just a couple of other small things. Bring some medication for motion sickness, even if you don’t normally get seasick. The open water crossings between islands can sometimes be a bit bumpy, and it’s better to have it and not need it, you know? The ship usually has some, but it’s always good to have your own. Also, cash. You’ll need it for tips for the crew and your guide at the end of the trip, and maybe for a souvenir or a drink at a small bar if you stop in a town. They’ll usually give you a guideline for tipping. And honestly, my biggest tip is to just be open to everything. Talk to the guides, ask questions, chat with your fellow passengers. Be present in the moment. At the end of the day, it’s a fast-paced trip with a lot to see, so just soak it all in. It’s a really special place and the experience will absolutely stick with you.