A 2025 Review: Mtskheta Organic Wine Tour with Tastings
Okay, so let’s talk about getting out of Tbilisi for a day. You know, you can spend weeks just walking around the capital and still find new things, but frankly, the call of the countryside is pretty strong. This is especially true when you hear stories about Georgia being, more or less, the very place where winemaking began thousands of years ago. I mean, we were searching for an experience that felt a little more genuine, something away from the big tour buses and frankly, something that put a good glass of wine in our hands. Actually, the idea of a private tour seemed like a good fit for what we wanted. It was really the thought of seeing the old capital, Mtskheta, and then spending the afternoon at small, family-run organic wineries that completely sold us on the idea. This particular trip, you know, the ‘Organic wines of Mtskheta’ tour, just seemed to have all the right pieces for a really unforgettable day out.
You see, the thing about Georgian wine is that it’s just a little different from what you might be used to. So much of it is made in these huge clay pots, called qvevri, which are literally buried in the ground. It’s an ancient method that gives the wine a character that is, to be honest, completely its own. So, the promise of seeing this firsthand, at wineries that farm without chemicals and really care for their land, felt, you know, incredibly special. It’s almost like a peek behind a curtain into a tradition that has stayed strong for centuries. We were obviously excited about the lunch part too. A full-on Georgian feast, or supra, is a cultural happening in itself, basically full of toasts, amazing food, and, of course, a steady flow of homemade wine. In other words, we weren’t just booking a tour; we were, kind of, booking a spot at a family’s table for a day.
The Day Begins: Pickup and the Feeling of an Exclusive Trip
So, the morning of our outing was, you know, really filled with a sense of anticipation. Honestly, one of the best parts about a private arrangement is that you don’t have to find some random meeting spot in a busy city square at the crack of dawn. Instead, our guide, a really warm person named Lela, met us right at our apartment, which was a pretty big relief. Clearly, the communication leading up to the day had been great, just a few easy emails to confirm the time and what to expect from the day’s events. Actually, we were able to explore some incredible options for our trip beforehand, which really helped set our minds at ease. That personal contact from the start made the whole thing feel less like a transaction and, frankly, more like meeting up with a friend who was about to show you around her home region.
Alright, so the vehicle itself was an incredibly comfortable and clean SUV, which obviously is a nice touch for a full day of exploring. As a matter of fact, having that kind of space to stretch out in makes a huge difference, especially when you compare it to being squeezed into a big coach or a minivan with a bunch of other people. Right from the beginning, Lela was just incredibly chatty in a very relaxed way, sort of giving us a little preview of the day and asking what we were most excited about. This immediate rapport is, pretty much, what you hope for on a private tour. You know, you are spending a whole day with this person, so feeling at ease from the first moment is kind of a big deal. Actually, leaving the city behind with her at the wheel, it literally felt like we were in very good hands for the day ahead.
The Gentle Drive to Mtskheta: More Than Just a Transfer
You know, as we drove out of Tbilisi, the change in the surroundings was almost immediate and really quite striking. The busy city streets, you see, quickly gave way to these gently rolling hills that were, frankly, covered in a kind of soft green blanket. It was still morning, so the light had this amazing, almost golden quality to it, making everything look a little bit magical. I mean, it’s one thing to see the countryside from a train window, but being in a private car, you can really take it all in at a much slower speed. It really did feel like we were properly leaving the modern world behind for a little while. This part of the day was really important for setting the right mood for exploring such an old place like Mtskheta. We were actually checking out some guides for making the most of a countryside trip, and this one really delivered.
Basically, Lela was an amazing storyteller during the whole drive. This part of the day was so much more than just getting from point A to point B. For instance, she would point out little things along the way, like an old watchtower on a distant hill, and then she’d share a story about it. She spoke about the history of the Kartli region, which we were now in, and how it is pretty much the heartland of Georgia. To be honest, this is the kind of context that makes a place come alive. Instead of just seeing pretty scenery, you actually start to get a feel for the generations of people who have lived and worked on that land. Her words painted a picture that, frankly, was just as vivid as the view out of the window.
And then, you know, we saw it. After maybe twenty-five minutes of driving, Lela pointed ahead, and we got our first look at Mtskheta. It was seriously breathtaking. You could see the ancient Jvari Monastery perched on top of a hill, looking down over the whole area, with the town kind of spread out below where two rivers meet. It’s a view you’ve probably seen in pictures, but frankly, seeing it in person is something else entirely. It created a feeling of real excitement for what was to come. You could almost feel the history of the place just by looking at it from a distance. It was the perfect introduction, really, to the oldest city in Georgia.
Walking Through History: The Soul of Mtskheta
Jvari Monastery’s Timeless View
So, our first actual stop was the Jvari Monastery, the one we had seen from the road. The drive up the hill was a little windy, but the payoff was absolutely worth it. You know, once you’re standing up there, you literally get a panoramic view of Mtskheta and the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. Lela explained that the rivers are different colors and you can actually see the line where they meet, which was a pretty cool detail. Frankly, the monastery itself has a really powerful and serene atmosphere. It’s a very old stone building from the 6th century, and you can just feel the weight of its history. We were learning a lot about the historical weight carried by these ancient places, and it was fascinating. It’s apparently the spot where St. Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia, erected a wooden cross. Honestly, you don’t have to be religious to feel that this place is incredibly significant.
The Majestic Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Next, we went down into the town itself to see the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, and I mean, this place is just on another level. It is absolutely huge, the kind of building that makes you feel really small when you stand next to it. As a matter of fact, it’s one of the most important places for the Georgian Orthodox Church. Lela guided us through the inside, pointing out frescoes on the walls and explaining the story of the cathedral’s construction, which, you know, is a pretty wild legend involving a buried robe of Christ and a sacred pillar. Walking through the cool, quiet halls, you really get a sense of connection to the past. It’s a very peaceful and kind of humbling place to spend some time, away from the noise of the outside world. To be honest, we just spent a while in there soaking it all in.
The Charm of the Old Streets
Okay, so after the cathedral, we just took some time to wander through the cobbled streets of the main town. Actually, Mtskheta is very well-preserved and has a kind of storybook charm to it. The streets are lined with little shops selling all sorts of local crafts, beautiful textiles, and, of course, Churchkhela, which are those candle-shaped sweets made from grape juice and nuts. The air was filled with the sweet smell of baking bread from a nearby bakery, which was just so inviting. Frankly, it was a great way to transition from the deep history of the holy sites to the more relaxed, a little more human-scale atmosphere of the town. We just took our time, looked in a few shops, and watched people go about their day, which was a lovely, simple pleasure.
The Main Event: Visiting a Family’s Organic Winery
A Warm Welcome to the Marani
Alright, so after our time in Mtskheta, it was time for the part of the day we were, honestly, most looking forward to: the wine. Lela drove us a short way out of town to our first stop, a small, family-owned winery. It was basically a lovely house with a big, leafy garden and a separate building for the wine cellar, or marani as they call it. The owner, a very friendly man named Gela, came out to greet us with a huge smile. Frankly, this is exactly the kind of welcome you dream of. It immediately felt so personal and genuine, like we were visitors to his home, not just customers on a tour. We had a look at some info about exploring these special family-run wineries, and this place really was the perfect example of that kind of hospitality.
Discovering the Magic of Qvevri
So, Gela then took us into his marani, and wow, what a place. The air was cool and smelled of earth and fermenting grapes, a really unique and wonderful aroma. The floor was just dirt, and set into it were the tops of the massive qvevri, those clay vessels I mentioned. He explained that his family has been making wine this way for generations. You know, he tapped on one of the qvevri lids and told us that inside was the wine from last year’s harvest, just resting and developing its flavor. He lifted the heavy stone lid off one, and we got to peer inside at the beautiful, dark amber-colored liquid. He talked us through the whole process, from growing the grapes organically to letting them ferment naturally in the qvevri with their skins, seeds, and stems. It’s a very hands-off approach, in a way, just letting nature do its thing, and it was fascinating to hear about it straight from the person who does it.
The First Taste of True Georgian Wine
Then, of course, came the best part: the tasting. We sat down at a wooden table in the garden, and Gela brought out a few bottles. He started us with a white wine made from the Chinuri grape, but it wasn’t white like you’d expect. Because of the skin contact in the qvevri, it was a beautiful amber color, almost like honey. The taste was honestly amazing – it had this structure and texture, with notes of dried apricot and tea, that you just don’t find in most white wines. Next, we tried a Saperavi, a deep red wine that’s Georgia’s most famous. It was just bursting with dark fruit flavors but was also really smooth. You could really taste the care and the tradition in every single sip. He was just so passionate when talking about his creations, it made the experience of tasting them so much more meaningful.
A Supra to Remember: The Georgian Feast
Lunch in a Vineyard Garden
I mean, just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, it was time for lunch. We stayed right there at Gela’s winery, and his wife and mother had prepared a whole feast for us. They set up a table for us under a big, shady walnut tree in their garden, overlooking the rows of grapevines. Honestly, the setting was absolutely perfect. The hospitality was just on another level; they made us feel so incredibly welcome and comfortable. This whole part of the day was really what the core of Georgian food culture feels like; it’s all about sharing and generosity. You just felt like part of the family for a little while.
A Table Overflowing with Delights
Okay, so let’s talk about the food, because it was seriously incredible. The table was just groaning under the weight of all the dishes. There was a sizzling plate of mtsvadi, which is basically delicious grilled pork skewers. Of course, there was a steaming Imeretian khachapuri, that famous round cheese bread that is just pure comfort food. Then there were all the other little dishes: bright green spinach pkhali (a sort of pâté with walnuts and herbs), fresh cucumbers and tomatoes from their garden, savory eggplant with walnut paste, and of course, a basket full of warm, crusty bread. To be honest, everything was homemade, incredibly fresh, and packed with flavor. It was a true celebration of the food that comes from the land around you.
Toasts, Wine, and Connection
So, a Georgian lunch isn’t just about eating; it’s a supra, a real cultural event. Gela took on the role of the Tamada, or toastmaster, which is a really important position. With each glass of his homemade wine, he would propose a toast. But these aren’t just quick ‘cheers’; they are, you know, little speeches. He toasted to peace, to family, to Georgia, and to us as his guests. It’s a tradition that really makes you slow down and think about what’s important. Frankly, it beautifully connects the food, the wine, and the people together. It transforms a simple meal into something so much more memorable and, you know, deeply human. We shared stories and laughed a lot, and it was pretty much the highlight of an already amazing day.
Another Glass, Another Story: The Second Winery Experience
You know, after that huge and wonderful lunch, you might think we’d be done for the day, but our adventure wasn’t quite over. Lela drove us to a second winery, which was, actually, a very interesting contrast to the first. This one felt a little more modern, though still very much a family affair. The cellar was perhaps a little bigger, and they seemed to be experimenting a bit more with blending different grape varieties, which was really cool to see. Seeing two different approaches to the same tradition on the same day was honestly a brilliant part of the tour’s design. It showed that Georgian winemaking is not just stuck in the past; it’s a living thing that’s still changing.
At this second location, the winemaker talked to us a lot about the specifics of the local soil and climate. He showed us on a little map where his different plots of land were and explained how each one gives the grapes a slightly different character. Frankly, it was a little bit more of a technical conversation than at the first winery, but it was just as fascinating. He was particularly proud of his organic farming practices, showing us the cover crops he plants between the vines to keep the soil healthy. You really got the sense that these winemakers are, more or less, farmers first and that their deep connection to their land is what makes the wine so special. To be honest, it was inspiring to see that level of care.
So, the tasting here offered a slightly different palette of flavors. We tried a fascinating Tavkveri, which is a lighter-bodied red wine, almost like a rosé but with more complexity and earthy notes. It was a really refreshing change after the big meal and the bolder Saperavi from earlier. We also tasted their version of a qvevri-aged Rkatsiteli, which was different again from the Chinuri we had first. It had more citrus notes and a kind of minerality to it. Frankly, by the end of this second tasting, we had a much richer and more rounded appreciation for the sheer diversity of Georgian wine. It’s really not just one thing; there’s a whole universe of flavors to discover.
So, Is the Mtskheta Organic Wine Tour for You?
Alright, so at the end of the day, who is this kind of tour really for? Well, if you’re the kind of traveler who genuinely wants to connect with a place and its people, then honestly, the answer is a definite yes. It’s perfect for people who love food and wine, obviously, but more specifically for those who are curious to try things that are unique and have a real story behind them. If your idea of a perfect day is to get away from the crowds and spend time in a beautiful setting, eating food made with love and drinking wine made with passion, then you will absolutely adore this experience. It’s a great choice if you are trying to figure out what sort of excursion fits your travel style. It is, pretty much, an immersion in authentic culture.
Now, there are a few things to keep in mind, of course. This is a very full day, so you need to come with a good amount of energy. Also, and this is important, you will be eating and drinking quite a lot. The Georgian hospitality is incredibly generous, and your glass and plate will likely never be empty for long. So, you know, you should definitely pace yourself. It’s not a party tour; it’s more of a long, leisurely culinary experience. Frankly, wearing comfortable shoes is also a good idea because there is a fair bit of walking around the historical