Hiking Theth, Valbona & Koman Lake: A 2025 Self-Guided Review

So, you’ve seen those incredible photos of Albania’s Accursed Mountains, right? You know, the ones with jagged stone peaks and valleys so green they almost don’t look real. Well, this 6-day self-guided trek through Theth, Valbona, and Koman Lake is basically that postcard brought to life. Honestly, choosing a self-guided option is, like, a perfect middle ground; you pretty much get all the adventure without the headache of figuring out where to sleep or how to get from point A to point B. At the end of the day, it’s about putting one foot in front of the other and just taking in some seriously wild scenery. We did this very trip, and frankly, there are a few things you should probably know before you go.

First Steps: The Drive from Shkodër to Theth National Park

Okay, the trip actually starts in a city called Shkodër, which is, you know, a cool spot in its own right. As a matter of fact, your tour package typically sorts out a pickup from your hotel there. This is really great because the drive to Theth is, to be honest, a little intense. You’re basically in a rugged 4×4 van climbing up these winding mountain roads, and the views get more and more amazing with every turn. You see, the driver often makes a stop at a viewpoint cafe that hangs, sort of, on the edge of a cliff. The whole thing is actually an adventure before the walking even begins. Anyway, when you finally roll into Theth, it feels like you’ve gone back in time. It’s just a scattering of stone houses and farmsteads in this massive, beautiful valley. The air is so, so clean. The guesthouse where you’ll stay is usually family-run, which, frankly, makes the experience feel very genuine and personal.

The Big One: Walking the Pass from Theth to Valbona

Alright, this is more or less the day everyone talks about, and it totally lives up to the hype. The walk from Theth over the pass to the Valbona Valley is pretty much the heart of the whole trip. You should know, it’s a long day of walking, arguably around 6 to 8 hours for most people. The trail starts fairly gently, you know, through a pretty forest next to a riverbed. Then, obviously, it starts to climb. And I mean, it really, really climbs. The path is well-marked, so you aren’t likely to get lost, but your legs will definitely feel it. There’s a spot about halfway up, a little cafe, which is basically the best place in the world for a cold drink and a rest.

You know, the moment you reach the top of the Valbona Pass is just… well, it’s something else. You’re literally standing on this ridge with the Theth valley behind you and the Valbona valley stretching out in front. It’s so quiet up there, except for maybe the wind and, like, your own breathing. The walk down into Valbona is almost as dramatic, with these huge, bare rock faces all around you. At the end of the day, finishing that walk gives you this incredible feeling of accomplishment. Your first glimpse of the guesthouse in Valbona, frankly, feels like finding an oasis.

Quiet Times in the Valbona Valley

After the very big walk, the day in Valbona is, sort of, a bit more relaxed. The valley here feels a little different from Theth; it’s, in a way, wider and more open. Your legs will probably appreciate the break, to be honest. You still have options, of course; you can take a shorter walk up the valley towards the Montenegro border, which is really beautiful. Or, you could just find a nice spot by the (mostly dry) riverbed and read a book. That’s a pretty good choice too. The food at the guesthouses is usually a highlight here. I mean, it’s all local, super fresh, and very hearty stuff. Think fresh cheese, homemade bread, and vegetables from the garden. It’s pretty much the kind of simple, good food you crave after a long day outside. It’s a day to just kind of recharge and soak in the mountain atmosphere before the next part of the adventure.

A Different Kind of Scenery: The Koman Lake Ferry

So, getting out of the Valbona Valley is honestly just as stunning as getting in. Instead of another long walk, you take a transfer down to a ferry terminal at Fierze. And then, well, you get on the Koman Lake ferry. This is, you know, completely different from the high mountain passes. The lake is actually a reservoir, and the ferry ride takes about two and a half hours through these incredibly narrow gorges. Some people, in fact, say it’s like the fjords in Norway, and they’re not really wrong. You just sit on the deck of this small ferry and watch the steep, green cliffs slide by. It’s so peaceful and, in some respects, almost a bit surreal after the effort of the past few days. The water is this deep, amazing shade of green-blue. At the end of the day, it’s the perfect, calming finale to your time deep inside the Albanian Alps.

Some Honest Advice for Your Trip

Frankly, a little bit of preparation goes a long way on a trip like this. This self-guided tour is very well organized, but there are still a few things you should probably know to make your life easier. This isn’t your average walk in the park, right? So, here are a few thoughts based on our own experience.

• Bring Cash, Seriously: Once you leave Shkodër, you are basically in a cash-only world. There are, you know, no ATMs in Theth or Valbona. You will need cash for lunches, drinks, and any souvenirs, so it’s a good idea to just get enough for the whole time you’re in the mountains.
• Pack Light, But Smart: You typically have your main luggage transferred for you, but you’ll carry a daypack on the big hike. So, in that pack, you just need water, snacks, sunscreen, a rain jacket (the weather can change fast), and maybe some blister plasters. Good, broken-in walking boots are absolutely not optional.
• Check Your Fitness: To be honest, you don’t need to be a super athlete, but a decent level of fitness is pretty important. The Theth to Valbona walk is long and has a lot of uphill sections. Maybe do a few longer walks at home before you go, just so your body is, like, ready for it.
• Maps and Navigation: The tour usually provides a GPS app or very clear instructions. The main trail is also painted with red and white marks. Still, it’s always smart to just pay attention, especially at any trail junctions.
• The Guesthouses: Remember, these are pretty much family homes, not fancy hotels. The rooms are clean and comfortable, but often simple. That is actually part of the charm, so just embrace the local hospitality. It’s a really special part of the experience.

Read our full review: Theth, Valbona & Koman Lake Hike Full Review and Details
See Prices, Availability & Reserve Now (Self-Guided Albanian Alps Tour)