Rethymno & Kournas Lake Tour from Chania: A 2025 Review

Setting Off from Chania for a Day of Cretan Contrasts

So, the morning started out pretty much like you would expect for a day trip in Crete. We were picked up, you know, right near our spot in Chania, and the air was already that special kind of warm that promises a good day ahead. There is this sort of quiet excitement that comes with getting on a cool, air-conditioned coach, knowing you are about to see parts of the island you would not have seen otherwise. Basically, you are handing over the reins for a day, which is a nice feeling on a vacation. You just find your seat, look out the window, and watch the familiar streets of Chania give way to the main national road that stretches along the northern coast. As a matter of fact, the guide on our trip was really friendly from the get-go, kind of setting a relaxed tone for everyone and giving a little rundown of what we would be seeing, but without giving too much away, which I liked. It’s almost a little ritual, this morning departure, a quiet promise of new sights and feelings before the day gets truly going.

Actually, that drive towards Rethymno is a big part of the experience itself. To one side, you have these rugged, olive-grove-dotted hills that seem to go on forever, and to the other, honestly, the sea is this incredible, almost impossible shade of blue. It just pops. Sometimes the road climbs a little, and you get these wide-open views that really make you understand the scale of the island. Then you dip down again, passing small villages and signs for beaches you kind of mentally bookmark for another day. We listened as the guide pointed out a few landmarks and shared some little stories about the area we were passing through. At the end of the day, it’s not just about the destinations, right? It’s about the in-between moments, too, watching the Cretan countryside fly by your window, feeling the sun get a little higher in the sky. It’s pretty much the perfect way to build anticipation for the first stop.

First Stop: Rethymno’s Old Town, A Walk Back in Time

Frankly, arriving in Rethymno’s Old Town feels like you have been dropped into a different world entirely. One minute you are on a modern road, and the next you are walking on cobblestones through these very narrow alleyways where the buildings seem to lean in to share secrets. The mix of influences here is just incredible. You have these grand Venetian mansions with their wooden balconies and arched doorways, standing right next to buildings with a more Ottoman character, you know, like the mosques with their distinct minarets. It’s this beautiful, slightly confusing mix of history. The colors are what I remember most, really. Walls of ochre, faded pink, and soft apricot, with bright bursts of bougainvillea spilling over them. You’re pretty much immediately reaching for your camera because every single corner presents a picture that’s just a little bit different from the last. It’s a place that just begs to be wandered through without a map.

So, we were given a good amount of free time here, which was great. You kind of have a choice to make. You could, for instance, make a beeline for the massive Fortezza, the Venetian fortress that sits on a hill overlooking the town and the sea. You can get some absolutely amazing views from up there. Or, you could wander down to the old Venetian harbor, which is sort of the heart of the tourist area, lined with seafood restaurants and cafes. Honestly, my advice is to just get lost. That’s where you find the really special spots. The tiny artisan shops selling local crafts, the bakeries where you can smell the fresh pastries from a block away, the quiet courtyards where locals are just sitting and chatting. As a matter of fact, taking some time to learn about what you can find in the historic center before you go can help you make the most of your free time. There are so many little hidden churches and ornate fountains to stumble upon, and it feels like a real accomplishment when you do.

The whole feeling of the town is just something else, really. Unlike other places, Rethymno has a slightly more laid-back, almost scholarly air to it, probably because of the university here. You just feel it in the way people move. You hear a real mix of sounds: the clinking of glasses from cafes, the murmur of different languages from other visitors, and then, if you listen closely, the actual sounds of the town itself—a shopkeeper sweeping their stoop or a conversation drifting from an open window above. We found this little cafe on a side street, pretty much hidden from the main crowds, and just sat with a freddo espresso, watching the world go by. It’s these kinds of moments, right, that stick with you. It’s not just a checklist of sights; it’s the actual feeling of being in a place, of breathing its air and hearing its sounds. It’s a totally different character from Chania, and seeing that difference is part of the fun.

Next Up: The Waterfalls and Greenery of Argiroupolis Village

Leaving the sun-baked stones of Rethymno behind, the coach begins to climb, which is a very interesting change. The scenery just completely shifts. You start heading inland, up into the foothills of the mountains, and you know, the landscape becomes incredibly lush and green. It’s almost a little surprising. The air that comes through the vents feels a bit cooler and smells different, sort of green and earthy. You see olive groves replaced by huge plane trees and a lot more wild vegetation. It’s a really stark contrast to the coastal areas, and it kind of reminds you how diverse the landscape of this one island is. The road gets a little more winding, in a way, offering peeks into deep valleys and across rolling green hills. Honestly, it’s a very pleasant part of the drive, a quiet transition from the historical city to a natural wonderland.

Then you arrive in Argiroupolis, and it is a place with a very unique atmosphere. It’s a pretty village built on the site of the ancient Roman city of Lappa, and you can still see bits and pieces of that history around. But the real star of the show, at the end of the day, is the water. The village is famous for its springs and small waterfalls. Literally, water seems to be gushing from everywhere—out of the rocks, down stone channels, into small pools. The sound of running water is just a constant, calming background noise. It’s this incredibly green, shaded oasis. You can walk along these little paths that follow the water, and the whole area is just dripping with life. It is something that a person should check out, the special appeal of these green spots, because it is so different from what you expect from a Greek island. It’s a total sensory experience.

So, this is typically where the tour stops for lunch, and for a very good reason. Many of the local tavernas have been built directly into the landscape, right alongside the springs. You are literally eating your meal just feet away from a rushing waterfall, with the mist sort of cooling you down. It’s an incredible setting, you know? They are known for a specific kind of cooking here, often featuring “antikristo” lamb, which is cooked very slowly around a fire. The food just feels extra fresh, probably because of all the fresh water around. We had a meal that was simple but absolutely delicious—grilled meat, fresh Greek salad with local cheese, and some amazing oven-roasted potatoes. Frankly, having a long, leisurely lunch in a setting like that, with the sound of the falls and the shade of the huge trees, is a high point of the entire day. It’s an experience that’s just as much about the atmosphere as it is about the food.

The Grand Finale: Kournas Lake, Crete’s Only Freshwater Lake

After the cool, shaded enclosure of Argiroupolis, driving a short distance and suddenly seeing the vast, open expanse of Kournas Lake is a pretty amazing reveal. It’s Crete’s only natural freshwater lake, and it’s just huge, nestled in a valley with the White Mountains looming in the background. The first thing that strikes you, honestly, is the color of the water. It’s famous for changing with the light, and on the day we were there, it was this stunning range of colors, from a deep emerald green near the edges to a bright turquoise blue further out. It really doesn’t look real, almost like it was painted. You get out of the coach, and the air feels different again—open and fresh. There’s a definite buzz of activity around the shore, with people milling about, but the lake itself has this immense feeling of peace and calm. It’s a very dramatic and beautiful spot.

Now, the most popular thing to do here is pretty obvious, and you should totally do it. You have to get out on the water. You can rent a pedalo—one of those pedal boats—or a kayak for a very reasonable price. So, we picked a two-person pedalo and just headed out towards the middle of the lake. It’s just a fantastic experience. Once you get a little way from the shore, all the sounds from the cafes and crowds just fade away, and it becomes incredibly quiet. You just hear the gentle splash of your pedals in the water and maybe some birds. We just stopped in the middle and floated for a while, taking in the 360-degree view of the mountains surrounding the water. They say you can sometimes spot turtles, and we were lucky enough to see a couple of them swimming near the reedy banks. For any kind of person who enjoys being on the water, you should absolutely look into renting a little boat, as it is just the best way to connect with the place.

Of course, if you’re not in the mood for pedaling, that’s completely fine, too. The shore area is lined with cafes and tavernas where you can just grab a seat, order a drink, and soak in the view. You basically get the same stunning scenery without any of the physical effort. It’s a really great spot to just relax and unwind for the last part of the afternoon before heading back. We had about an hour or so left after our pedalo ride, so we did just that. We grabbed an ice cream, found a chair right by the water’s edge, and just watched the light change on the mountains. It’s kind of the perfect, low-key end to a very full day of sightseeing, a moment to just sit still and appreciate the natural beauty of what you’ve just seen. It sort of feels like the day’s gentle exhale.

The Drive Home and Final Thoughts on the Day

That ride back to Chania has a very particular feeling to it. You know, everyone on the coach is a little quieter, a little sleepy. You’re tired, obviously, but it’s that really good kind of tired you get after a day full of new sights and fresh air. As you drive, the late afternoon sun casts these long shadows and makes the landscape look soft and golden. It’s a really nice time for reflection, just looking out the window and sort of mentally replaying the day’s highlights: the maze-like streets of Rethymno, the cool sound of the waterfalls in Argiroupolis, and the incredible color of the water at Kournas Lake. It is, in some respects, a very satisfying kind of quiet, the feeling of returning home after a successful little adventure.

So, who is a trip like this actually for? To be honest, it’s got a really broad appeal. It’s pretty much perfect for someone who is staying in or near Chania and wants to see a lot of what makes Crete so varied in just one day, without the hassle of renting a car and planning a route. It works really well for couples, and for families with slightly older kids who can handle the walking. Solo travelers would likely enjoy it too, as it’s a very easy way to see major sights in a safe and structured way. You get a taste of everything: a historic city, a unique mountain village, and a major natural landmark. At the end of the day, for people who enjoy a bit of everything on their holidays, you can learn about what else is available that offers this kind of variety. It’s a real sampler platter of the Chania region.

If I had to give a final piece of advice, it would be pretty simple, really. First, absolutely wear comfortable shoes. Seriously, you will thank yourself after walking all over Rethymno’s cobblestones. Also, definitely bring a hat and sunscreen, as the Cretan sun is no joke, especially around the open spaces of the lake. Bringing a reusable water bottle is a good move, too. And you know, have a bit of cash on hand. While most places take cards, it just makes things a little smoother for buying a small drink or a souvenir from a tiny shop. But mostly, just go with an open mind, ready to see three places that are incredibly different from one another, all within a few hours’ drive. It’s a pretty remarkable showcase of the island’s personality.