Review: Highlights of BA by Bike Tour (Part Two) for 2025

So, if you happened to read my first review, you already know that I was really quite impressed with the northern loop of the BA by Bike tour. Honestly, that ride through Palermo and Recoleta was something else, you know, with all its wide avenues and grand old buildings. Well, I just had to see what the second part of their offering was all about, which, as a matter of fact, promised a totally different side of the city. This ‘Part Two’ tour is sort of focused on the southern barrios, and to be honest, it’s where you can almost feel the heartbeat of old Buenos Aires. It’s a bit more gritty, a little more soulful, and seriously full of character. I was pretty much ready to see a new face of the city, and frankly, I was curious if the experience would be just as good as the first one. Actually, this part of the tour explores areas that are incredibly rich in history and culture, places where the story of Buenos Aires really began. It’s almost a complete contrast to the more European feel of the northern districts, which, in a way, is what makes it so appealing. Anyway, I booked it for a sunny Thursday, hoping to catch the city in its best light.

You know, the tour company is pretty much consistent with its quality, so I had high hopes from the get-go. Still, the southern half of the city has its own kind of personality, so I was really interested to see how they would present it on two wheels. The route supposedly covered some of the most iconic spots, you know, the ones you see on postcards, but the promise was that we’d see them in a different way. At the end of the day, a bike gives you a kind of freedom that a tour bus just can’t match. You can, like, feel the cobblestones under your tires and smell the coffee from the little corner cafes. This is actually what I look for in a city tour—not just seeing the sights, but kind of experiencing them with all your senses. Frankly, my expectations were pretty high for this southern circuit. As I was saying, having loved the first tour so much, the bar was set, and I was genuinely excited to see if they could reach it again. The communication before the tour was, just like before, really clear, with a straightforward meeting point and time. Okay, so with my helmet on and water bottle filled, I was all set to ride into the soul of Buenos Aires.

Kicking Off in San Telmo: Cobblestones and Timeless Charm

Alright, so the meeting spot was just off the famous Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, which, to be honest, is the perfect place to start a tour like this. It’s like you’re instantly transported back in time, with those seriously old colonial buildings and the worn-down cobblestone streets. Our guide, a very friendly Porteño named Mateo, was actually there early, getting all the bikes ready. The group was kind of small, maybe eight of us in total, which I really prefer; you know, it feels a bit more personal that way. Mateo basically gave us a quick rundown of the bikes, which were honestly really comfortable and well-maintained cruisers, perfect for city riding. He clearly explained the route we’d be taking and some ground rules for staying safe, which, in a way, made everyone feel a lot more relaxed. As a matter of fact, his passion for his city was obvious right from the start; you could just hear it in his voice. For instance, before we even started pedaling, he pointed out some architectural details on the buildings around the plaza that you would just, like, totally miss otherwise. We were given our gear, and there was a bit of friendly chat as everyone got adjusted to their bikes. Frankly, finding a good spot for a unique perspective on San Telmo is easier when you’re with someone who knows the area so well.

Then, we were off, and actually, the first part of the ride was a slow pedal through the backstreets of San Telmo itself. Mateo, who was leading the pack, was sort of a master at pointing things out without stopping the flow too much. He’d gesture towards a faded mural on a wall or an old, hidden-away courtyard, and, you know, give us a quick tidbit of information through the handy earpiece speaker we all had. Honestly, this little piece of tech was a fantastic idea because you could hear him perfectly without everyone having to bunch up. We cruised past antique shops with their windows full of curious treasures, and the smell of roasting coffee from tiny little cafes really filled the air. In a way, you could feel the creative and bohemian spirit of the neighborhood. It’s almost a living museum, but still very much a residential area where people go about their daily lives. Seeing kids playing football on a quiet street next to a building from the 1880s is, like, a perfect snapshot of what makes San Telmo so special. At the end of the day, it was a really gentle and immersive start to the adventure, a chance to kind of get our bearings and soak in the atmosphere before heading to the bigger sights. The authentic vibe of the area is something you really have to experience for yourself.

I mean, the way Mateo talked about the history was pretty captivating. He told us stories about the area’s aristocratic past and how it changed after the yellow fever epidemic in the 1870s, which is, basically, why so many immigrants ended up settling here. You really get a sense of the layers of history, you know, just by looking at the buildings. Some are grand but slightly decayed, while others are brightly painted tenements called conventillos. He pointed out one specific old house with these beautiful wrought-iron balconies and explained its whole story, which was just fascinating. You feel like you’re not just a tourist looking at stuff; you’re actually learning about the people who walked these same streets hundreds of years ago. We eventually paused at the San Telmo Market, and although we didn’t go inside, Mateo gave us some great recommendations for visiting it on our own time, especially for the famous Sunday street fair. To be honest, this kind of practical advice is what I really value in a guide. It makes you feel like you’re getting insider knowledge. Actually, he even recommended a specific vendor inside for the best choripán, which, of course, I made a mental note of. That kind of tip is pure gold, you know. I was definitely impressed with the way he managed to weave together history and local tips so seamlessly.

A Thoughtful Pause at Parque Lezama

So, our next stop, after winding our way out of the tighter streets of San Telmo, was the really expansive Parque Lezama. It’s this large, slightly hilly park that kind of acts as a natural border between San Telmo and La Boca, so it was a logical stop. Honestly, the change in scenery was quite welcome; you go from narrow, shaded streets to this wide-open green space. The park itself is apparently a local favorite, and you can really see why. It was just full of life—people walking their dogs, couples sitting on benches, and groups of friends sharing mate. Mateo gathered us under the shade of a massive, ancient-looking tree and started to tell us about the park’s significance. It’s seemingly one of the most historic spots in the entire city. He painted a very vivid picture for us. You know, he said that some historians believe this is the very spot where Pedro de Mendoza first founded Buenos Aires way back in 1536. Obviously, that’s a pretty big claim, and hearing about it while standing right there was, like, really cool. It definitely gives you a different appreciation for the patch of green grass you’re standing on. You can just sort of feel the weight of all that history around you. To be honest, finding these stories behind the city’s green spaces makes the experience so much richer.

Mateo didn’t just stop at the founding story, which was, you know, already interesting enough. He also pointed out the huge, dramatic statue in the center of the park, a monument to that first, and ultimately failed, settlement. But then he drew our attention across the street to the absolutely stunning Russian Orthodox Cathedral. With its bright blue onion domes, it just looks so out of place, yet at the same time, completely magnificent. Frankly, it’s one of those views that really catches you by surprise. He explained how a wave of Russian immigration at the beginning of the 20th century led to its construction. At the end of the day, it’s this visual representation of the many different cultures that have shaped Buenos Aires. We didn’t go inside, but just seeing it from the park was more than enough. Actually, this was a really good moment to just catch our breath, drink some water, and ask Mateo questions. He was more or less an open book, happy to chat about anything from local politics to the best places for steak. This kind of relaxed, conversational stop is what makes a good tour great. You know, it’s not just about biking from point A to point B. Discovering the architectural surprises of the city was a highlight.

“You see,” Mateo said, gesturing from the park to the city, “Buenos Aires is like a history book, but the pages are all out of order. Here in the park, you have page one, and just across the street, you have page one hundred. And somehow, you know, it just works.”

Basically, that quote really stuck with me because it perfectly captured the feeling of the city. We spent about twenty minutes in the park, which was, like, the perfect amount of time. It was enough to rest and learn without losing momentum. The stop also served as a sort of transition. Mateo explained that from here, we would be heading into La Boca, a neighborhood with a completely different energy and story. This pause was almost like a moment of calm before the storm of color and sound that is La Boca. You could almost feel the anticipation building within our little group. To be honest, I was getting really excited. This neighborhood is, like, legendary, and I couldn’t wait to see it for myself, especially with a guide who could peel back its layers. The way this tour was structured was really smart, you know, building up the narrative as we moved through the city. Finding a comprehensive guide to La Boca’s history can be hard, so having a live storyteller was amazing.

Into the Heart of Color: La Boca and the Caminito

Alright, so leaving Parque Lezama, the vibe started to change almost immediately. The buildings became a little more modest, and you could just sense that we were entering a working-class part of town with a ton of history. Then, you know, we turned a corner, and bam—there it was. Color. So much color. We had arrived in La Boca. Honestly, photos just don’t do it justice. The houses, called conventillos, are literally painted in every shade you can think of—bright yellows, deep blues, vibrant greens, and fiery reds. It’s almost a sensory overload, but in the best possible way. Mateo had us park our bikes, and he explained the story behind all the color. As a matter of fact, the neighborhood was settled by Genoese immigrants who worked in the shipyards. Basically, they didn’t have much money for paint, so they just used whatever leftover marine paint they could get from the ships. What started out of necessity has, you know, become the neighborhood’s most iconic feature. Hearing that story just makes you appreciate it all so much more; it’s not just for tourists, it’s part of the fabric of their history. The famous Caminito street museum is a sight to behold, for real.

We then walked right into the middle of the Caminito, the famous pedestrian street that’s like an open-air art museum. It was buzzing with energy. Tango music was playing from a nearby cafe, and a couple was actually dancing right there on the street, their movements so fluid and passionate. Honestly, it feels a little bit like a movie set, but it’s still very real. Artists were selling their colorful paintings, many depicting scenes from the neighborhood, and craft stalls were everywhere. Mateo guided us through the crowds, pointing out sculptures and artworks that tell the story of La Boca. He was really good at navigating the space, you know, finding quieter corners where he could talk to us without shouting over the music. He explained that ‘Caminito’ means ‘little path’ and was named after a famous tango song. To be honest, you could spend hours just wandering here, getting lost in the little alleyways. We even got to peek inside a recreated conventillo to see what living conditions were like for the early immigrants. Seeing the authentic tango culture up close was definitely a bucket list moment.

And then, just a short ride from the Caminito, we stopped in front of a giant, blue-and-yellow legend: La Bombonera, the home stadium of the Boca Juniors football club. Even if you’re not a soccer fan, you just can’t help but be impressed by this place. It’s huge and kind of looks like a giant chocolate box, which is actually what ‘La Bombonera’ means. Mateo, a passionate Boca fan himself, talked about the club with so much energy it was infectious. He told us stories about legendary players like Diego Maradona and explained how the whole neighborhood lives and breathes for its team. He described what it’s like on a game day, saying the whole stadium literally shakes from the jumping fans. You could almost hear the roar of the crowd just standing there. We didn’t do the stadium tour, which is a separate thing, but just seeing it from the outside and hearing the stories was more than enough to get a sense of its importance. At the end of the day, you can’t really understand La Boca without understanding its love for Boca Juniors. For sports fans, checking out La Bombonera’s history is a must.

From Gritty Past to Gleaming Future: Puerto Madero’s Transformation

Okay, so after the explosion of color and passion in La Boca, the tour took a pretty dramatic turn as we pedaled towards Puerto Madero. It’s almost like cycling into a different city altogether. One minute you’re surrounded by gritty, historic charm, and the next, you know, you’re gliding along these wide, clean pathways next to sleek glass skyscrapers and repurposed red-brick warehouses. Honestly, the contrast is really striking and shows just how diverse Buenos Aires is. Puerto Madero is the city’s newest and most modern neighborhood, and it feels like it. Everything is very orderly and shiny. We biked along the waterfront, and Mateo explained the incredible urban renewal project that transformed this once-derelict port area into the trendy district it is today. You could see all the old warehouses that have been converted into fancy restaurants, offices, and apartments. It’s actually a pretty brilliant example of how a city can reinvent itself. To be honest, getting to grips with the story of Puerto Madero’s development makes you appreciate the area even more.

The centerpiece of the neighborhood, and our main stop here, was the Puente de la Mujer, or Woman’s Bridge. It’s this really elegant and futuristic-looking pedestrian bridge designed by the famous architect Santiago Calatrava. As a matter of fact, it’s designed to look like a couple dancing the tango, which is a pretty cool concept, right? Mateo explained that the bridge also pivots to allow boats to pass through, which is a neat piece of engineering. We got off our bikes and walked onto the bridge, and you just get these fantastic views of the city skyline on one side and the waterfront on the other. It was a really good photo opportunity, and everyone in the group took their time soaking it all in. Frankly, it felt like a world away from the cobblestones of San Telmo that we had started on. Mateo used this stop to talk about the modern side of Buenos Aires—its economy, its business world, and its place as a major South American hub. In a way, this part of the tour showed us the city’s ambition and its forward-looking attitude. For those interested in design, researching the work of its famous architect is very rewarding.

I mean, cycling through Puerto Madero was just so easy and pleasant. The bike paths are wide and separate from traffic, which, you know, is a really nice break after navigating some of the busier streets earlier. We glided past a couple of historic frigate ships that are now permanently docked and serve as museums, which adds another little layer of history to this modern area. Mateo pointed out some of the best spots to grab a drink or a meal, noting that while it can be a bit pricey, the views are often worth it. You know, that kind of practical advice is always appreciated. We didn’t stop for a long time, but it was enough to get a really good feel for the place. At the end of the day, including Puerto Madero in the tour was a smart choice because it completes the picture of Buenos Aires. You see the old, the colorful, and then the shiny and new. It’s a city of contrasts, and this bike ride really let us experience that firsthand. We even found out that there are plenty of excellent dining options nearby for after the tour.

A Breath of Fresh Air: The Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

Frankly, just when I thought the tour couldn’t offer any more contrasts, we headed into our final destination: the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. It’s this huge nature reserve that’s located right next to the ultra-modern Puerto Madero, which, you know, is kind of crazy when you think about it. You literally go from skyscrapers to marshland in the space of a few hundred feet. Mateo explained that the reserve was accidentally created on land reclaimed from the river. For years, rubble from demolished buildings was dumped there, and nature just sort of took over, creating this amazing ecosystem. Now, it’s a protected area and a haven for wildlife. Cycling here felt like a true escape from the city. The paved paths turned into dirt tracks, and the sounds of traffic were replaced by the chirping of birds and the rustling of reeds in the wind. Seriously, it was so peaceful. It’s almost hard to believe you’re still in a massive capital city. It felt really good to just breathe in the fresh air and pedal along at a leisurely pace. Discovering these natural havens within the city is always a pleasant surprise.

We rode for quite a while inside the reserve, and Mateo pointed out a few different types of birds along the way. To be honest, he wasn’t a bird expert, but he knew the common ones, and it was just nice to be in that kind of environment. The highlight of this part of the trip was definitely when we reached the banks of the Río de la Plata. We stopped, and you could just stare out at this massive, brown river that looks more like an ocean. In the distance, you could see the skyline of Puerto Madero rising up behind the trees, which was a really unique and beautiful view. You get the city and nature all in one frame. At the end of the day, it was the perfect place for our final stop. We all just kind of stood there in comfortable silence for a few minutes, taking it all in. Mateo shared some final thoughts about the city, wrapping up all the different threads of history, culture, and nature we had seen throughout the day. For visitors looking for a break from the urban environment, a guide to the ecological reserve is extremely useful.

You know, as we started to pedal back towards the meeting point, I felt completely satisfied with the whole experience. This “Part Two” tour was honestly just as brilliant as the first, but in a totally different way. It showed me the city’s raw, artistic soul, its passionate heart, and its surprising natural beauty. The route was so well thought out, with each stop building on the last to create a complete story. The bike was a great way to cover a lot of ground while still feeling connected to the streets and the people. And of course, having a guide like Mateo, who was so knowledgeable and genuinely loved his city, made all the difference. As a matter of fact, he made the city come alive. It wasn’t just a collection of sights; it was a living, breathing place with a story to tell. So, if you’re in Buenos Aires and want to see beyond the obvious, I can’t recommend this bike tour enough. It’s a fantastic way to spend a day and, you know, you’ll leave with a much deeper appreciation for this incredible city. I’d absolutely say that the positive reviews for this tour company are well-deserved.